News for April 2011
Assemble Your Troops 5
Part two of a Battles of Westeros painting guide by Giles Dorrington
Battles of Westeros | Published 04 April 2011

Last week, miniatures painter Giles Dorrington took us through the starting steps in painting your Battles of Westeros figures. Today, we’re pleased to present the informative conclusion:

Step 3: Painting the Main Areas

Now it's time to add the main blocks of colour; cloaks, shields, surcoats and the like. The basic idea here is using a size 1 brush, to paint the item a base colour, but leave a little of the black showing around the edge to help it stand out. Then just add a lighter highlight colour on any raised areas, such as folds in cloth, which would naturally catch the light.

The cloak on this War Host of the North (below) is a good example of what I'm talking about. Here I've used #502 Field Drab for the base colour, and highlighted it with #222 Horse-tone Roan. The fur trim was done with #236 Horse-tone Grey and #526 Tank Light Grey.

The only reason I've used different colours for the highlights is because I had them to hand and it saved mixing up a highlight colour. However, if you don't want to go to the extra expense of buying highlight colours the same effect can be achieved just by taking your base colour and mixing a little white with it (as with dry-brushing, if you're an inexperienced painter it's worth spending a couple of minutes practising on a cheap figure).

In general, I've only highlighted the larger areas on the figures, and just painted the smaller details such as belts and bows in a single colour. The only smaller areas that I've highlighted have been the blades of weapons and the faces to emphasise them a little.

Step 4: Details and Bases

I haven't tried to paint every conceivable detail but just picked out a few of the main ones, like belt buckles, boots, gloves, and beards, using a size 0 brush. Where I did spend a few extra minutes was on the leaders, such as Gregor Clegane's surcoat and Addam Marbrands's shield, but whether you want to go to those lengths is entirely up to you.

The last area I paint is normally the base and this is just done using #230 Cammo Green as a base colour, with #125 Putrid Green dry-brushed on to add highlights.

Step 5: Dipping and Varnishing

The last stage of the painting process is what's called a 'dip'. This is done by applying a polyurethane wood-stain (available from any hardware store: Minwax Polyshades is a well known brand in the US). This comes in various shades; walnut is what I've used on my Westeros miniatures. The reason for applying a wood stain is twofold. Firstly, it pools in the recesses and crevices and gives an extra level of shading (you can see this especially well on the bases of the Stark leaders).

Secondly, it acts as a hardwearing varnish which will protect and preserve the paintwork on the minis.

The reason this technique is called the 'dip' is that when miniature painters first started using it they used to just dip the whole figure in the tin of wood-stain and then shake off the excess. However, I've found that you get much better (and less messy) results by just painting it on with a large, e.g. size 4, brush. The only problem with wood stain is that it can start to pool in unwanted areas, like at the bottom of shields. To alleviate this problem I just dry the brush off a little on a piece of kitchen tissue, and then use the brush to soak up some of the wood stain in the problem area while it's still wet.

The very final stage, at least for me, is to give the miniatures a quick spray of Testors Dullcote varnish, which gives them a matt finish as opposed to the gloss finish of the wood stain. Whether you prefer a matt or gloss finish is just a matt of personal opinion though, so I'll leave it up to you to decide.

A Final Word

You've probably noticed that the shields on my Lannister troops and some of the leaders have various emblems on them. This was done by using decals, originally available from Hobby Products GmbH. Sadly these are no longer available, however other manufacturers (for instance I know of Veni Vidi Vici Decals and Little Big Men Studios here in the UK) produce shield decals for 15mm miniatures which should work equally well.

Anyway, thanks for sticking with me and I hope that some of you have found this article useful and will be persuaded to try your hand at painting miniatures, if you haven't already.

Finally here's a list of the Cote D'Arms Paints I used and what they were used for:

Armour 232 Bronze (dry-brushed)
Buckles, Sword Hilts, etc. 232 Bronze (paint on)
Weapons 109 Chainmail
 - highlight 106 Enchanted Silver
Stark Cloaks 502 Field Drab
 - highlight & hounds 222 Horse-tone Roan
Stark Trim and surcoat 236 Horse-tone Grey
 - highlight and leash on hounds 526 Tank Light Grey
Lannister shields, cloaks, and surcoats 129 Vampire Red (highlight with white)
Lannister gold/ yellow trim 229 Dark Sand (highlight with white)
Faces 506 Desert Sand
 - highlight 213 Flesh
Hair 235 Horse-tone Brown
Wood 501 British Khaki
Straps and Belts 519 Chocolate Brown
Leather (boots, gloves, and quivers) 524 Tan Earth
Bases 230 Camouflage Green
 - highlight 125 Putrid Green
Robb Stark's Wolf 504 Panzer Grey
 - highlight 533 Slate Grey
Fletching on arrows and mixing highlights 101 White
Horses any above Horse-tone, highlighted white

Thanks, Giles! Do you have miniatures, articles, game aids, or other content that you’d like to share with FantasyFlightGames.com’s readers? Email submissions@fantasyflightgames.com and tell us about it, and maybe we’ll feature your content right here!

Set in the rich and vibrant world of George R.R. Martin’s Song of Ice and Fire series, Battles of Westeros is a board game of tactical battlefield combat for two players. With scenarios that include beloved characters and settings, players can recreate the most significant battles from The War of the Five Kings.

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Comments (5)

Ser Folly
Published: 4/23/2011 9:56:48 AM
#5

Thanks for that refreshing of my old skills in (pewter) miniature painting. I just now contemplate (as I am sure others do as well) to paint my minis, but ... IS DIPPING and VARNISH really enough to fix the acrylic paint on the miniature so that it doesn't come of even in careful useage. I spent great effort into conserving my RPG Minis still the paint kept comming of the figure. And that was just used ind Roleplay fights and the minis were metal and not quite soft plastics.

Wonder if you can give me advice/experiences with that.

Ser Folly

Almighty
Published: 4/15/2011 9:05:03 AM
#4

 WOW!  I'm really impressed with your painting skills.   Thanks for taking the time to share with us the hard work you've done.

DragonWhimsy
Published: 4/8/2011 5:20:36 AM
#3

These look great and tempt me to paint mine. I won't but I am tempted!  ;)

Great job, thanks for sharing how you did it.

GilesDorrington
Published: 4/8/2011 1:18:16 AM
#2

Thanks Red. Much appreciated & glad you enjoyed it. To be honest it's the first time I've ever done anything like that so it was a bit difficult deciding what to include and what to leave out (you could easily write a book on minis painting; but I thought I'd probably gone on enough already).

Having said that there's not so much around on how to paint armies, as opposed to individual minis....and I've got enough unfinished projects sitting around to prove there's a difference :)

Giles

Redordead
Published: 4/5/2011 3:26:42 AM
#1

 A great article for beginners and more experienced painters alike. Well done Giles!

Red

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